Choosing shoes and making them last

Length is not everything

At the same size, width and instep height differ by brand and model. That is where shoes that measure correctly still pinch, or where the heel slips. Buying on the number alone succeeds less often than people expect, so try them on where possible and confirm the exchange terms where not.

What to check when trying on

Feet swell slightly through the day, so a pair that fits in the morning often pinches by evening. Trying shoes on in the afternoon is closer to real conditions. Wearing the socks you will actually use matters too.

• About a finger's width in front of the big toe
• No pressure across the widest part of the foot
• The heel does not lift as you walk
• Try them with the socks you normally wear

Rotating makes them last

A shoe worn all day holds a surprising amount of moisture, and drying takes close to a full day. Wearing the same pair daily keeps them damp, which causes odour and breaks materials down faster. Simply alternating two pairs noticeably extends the life of each.

When they get wet

Using a heater or hot air to dry rain-soaked shoes quickly separates bonded seams and warps materials. Packing them with newspaper or dry cloth to draw out moisture and drying them in shade with airflow works better. Leather stiffens as it dries, so a conditioner afterwards reduces cracking.

When to replace them

Cushioning dies before the upper looks worn. Running shoes in particular lose shock absorption past a certain mileage regardless of appearance, which passes load to knees and feet. Tread worn heavily on one side, or fatigue arriving sooner than it used to, means it is time.